This is part three of a three-part series chronicling the current state of the Connecticut River as it runs through Massachusetts, in light of the recent U.S. Supreme Court
decision to limit the Clean Water Act. In part three, writer Anna Laird Barto returns to the river for the first time after recent catastrophic flooding made it unsafe for swimmers and boaters.

Venture beyond the historic inns and kitschy clam shacks along Route 6, and discover secluded beaches, rare wildlife, and mysterious ruins.

Last summer, I chronicled my 68-mile paddle of the Connecticut River through Massachusetts. Along the way, I became very well acquainted with the river, its bends and currents, dams and bridges, trees and wildlife — even its sewage overflows! Here are a few of my favorite sections, which highlight the richly varied landscape and character of our valley.

These four-to-seven-mile segments can be paddled in a day or an afternoon, depending on your speed. It takes some coordination to shuttle boats

In a city of 2.7 million, Chicagoland resident Mike Paus finds solitude gazing up at the skyscrapers and historic truss bridges from the cockpit of his 12-foot folding kayak. He likes to paddle in the morning when there aren’t many people around—only turtles, ducks and freighter ships arriving from ports worldwide. “You have it all to yourself,” says Paus, who owns an Oru Beach LT kayak. “It’s very good to just get away from it all and collect your thoughts. I encourage anybody who wants to impr

For their 15th wedding anniversary, Trent Sluiter of Cambridge, Ontario, bought himself and his wife, Holly, a pair of Tucktec folding kayaks. For Holly, 39, the gift meant far more than jewellery or flowers—it meant the freedom to get back outside.

“You can’t go out in your kayak and be on a beautiful lake and be upset or angry or anxious,” says Holly. “It’s this instant calming that comes over.”

It’s a peace Holly doesn’t take for granted. She lives with a rare condition called occipital and

The double-decker Tobin Bridge—the largest in New England—looms overhead as I bob on the waves of the Mystic River in my 10-foot Tucktec folding kayak. I am paddling the length of one of the most industrialized rivers in America, if not the world, as it flows from the suburban beaches of Medford to the smokestacks and shipping platforms at the mouth o